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      <title>Decollete</title>
      <link>http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/</link>
      <description>A Severed Head Gallery.  Guillotine and the Tudors, Judith and Salome.  Art and literature according to a decapitation enthusiast.</description>
      <language>en</language>
      <copyright>Copyright 2010</copyright>
      <lastBuildDate>Sun, 07 Mar 2010 10:16:31 -0800</lastBuildDate>
      <generator>http://www.sixapart.com/movabletype/</generator>
      <docs>http://blogs.law.harvard.edu/tech/rss</docs> 

      
      <item>
         <title><![CDATA[D&eacute;mod&eacute;: 1790's real women's clothing directory]]></title>
         <description><![CDATA[<div class="caption"><a href="http://demodecouture.com/realvict/1700s.html#1790"> <img alt="french-jacket-1790.jpg" src="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/gallery/guillotine/french-jacket-1790.jpg" width="260" height="331" class="mt-image-center" /></a><br>
Jacket; c. 1790; French<br>
Red and white striped silk brocade with <br>
silver-colored buttons; fold-back collar. <br>
<strong>Source:</strong> <a href="http://www.kci.or.jp/">Kyoto Fashion Institute</a></div>
Fantastic historic dress resource!  Particularly useful for isolating by decade the time period you are researching.  

<a href="http://demodecouture.com/realvict/1700s.html#1790">D&eacute;mod&eacute;: 1790's real women's clothing directory</a>

Every example is precious.  This is a beautiful example of sartorial enthusiasm for the revolution.  Or, it could just be a gorgeous red & white striped parisien jacket.  ]]></description>
         <link>http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/revolutionary-fashion/dmod-1790s-real-womens-clothin.php</link>
         <guid>http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/revolutionary-fashion/dmod-1790s-real-womens-clothin.php</guid>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">Revolutionary Fashion</category>
        
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">1790</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">french revolution</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">historic costume</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">revolutionary</category>
        
         <pubDate>Sun, 07 Mar 2010 10:16:31 -0800</pubDate>
      </item>
      
      <item>
         <title>Study of Beatrice Cenci, by Julia Margaret Cameron 1866</title>
         <description><![CDATA[This showed up on Wikimedia Commons today.  Will add to my <a href="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/a-decapitation-miscellany/beatrice-cenci.php">Beatrice Gallery</a>.  

<a href="http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Study_of_Beatrice_Cenci,_by_Julia_Margaret_Cameron.jpg"><img alt="490px-Study_of_Beatrice_Cenci,_by_Julia_Margaret_Cameron.jpg" src="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/upload/490px-Study_of_Beatrice_Cenci%2C_by_Julia_Margaret_Cameron.jpg" width="490" height="599" class="mt-image-center" style="text-align: center; display: block; margin: 0 auto 20px;" /></a>
Source: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Study_of_Beatrice_Cenci,_by_Julia_Margaret_Cameron.jpg

Study of Beatrice Cenci, 1866.
Model is May Prinsep.]]></description>
         <link>http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/a-decapitation-miscellany/study-of-beatrice-cenci-by-jul.php</link>
         <guid>http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/a-decapitation-miscellany/study-of-beatrice-cenci-by-jul.php</guid>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">A Decapitation Miscellany</category>
        
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">beatrice cenci</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">julia margaret cameron</category>
        
         <pubDate>Mon, 15 Feb 2010 14:54:53 -0800</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>Noire Gloire: 18th Century Mourning Customs in a time of Revolution</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<div class="caption"><img src="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/gallery/mourning/augustin_deuil.png"  alt="augustin_deuil.png" border="0"  /><br>Jean-Baptiste Jacques  Augustin 1792 [<a href="http://www.culture.gouv.fr/public/mistral/joconde_fr?ACTION=CHERCHER&FIELD_98=AUTR&VALUE_98=AUGUSTIN%20Jean%2dBaptiste%20Jacques&DOM=All&REL_SPECIFIC=1" target="_blank">source</a>]</div>

Up until the 18th century <em>mourning </em>was a luxury enjoyed (sic) mainly by royalty and those with sufficient aristocratic pedigrees.  When <a href="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/revolutionary-fashion/sir-henry-unton.php" >Sir Henry Unton</a>, a mere Ambassador, MP and civil servant extraordinaire, died of bubonic plague while in the queen's service in 1596 he was accorded a baron's funeral for services rendered, a full two stations higher than his own of Knight.  

Certain mourning customs that were familiar to the Victorians, the worlds best mourners, would have seemed equally at home four-hundred years earlier.  While the 16th century was awash in black, the upper class women (and by that we mean aristocratic) draped themselves in various veils and bauble-free headgear, usually in black, sometimes in white if you were Marie Stuart (please clip those "r"s like a proper scot).  Men donned a hooded cloak, seen quite clearly in Sir Henry's funeral procession.  These are not monks, but friends and family, who would be expected to wear the garment up to six months depending on their relation to the deceased.  Male mourning would later lose the mourning cloak and cowl, and substitute darker, more somber versions of <em>au current</em> fashion.

Prior to <em><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Et_in_Arcadia_ego" target="_blank">Et in Arcadia ego</a> </em>(Nicolas Poussin, 1637-1638) death iconography was quite literal, and consisted mostly of deaths heads and crossbones, reapers, and uniquely animated cadavers out to pay a call.  

During the enlightenment era a fundamental change occured.  While mourning goods became more affordable by the middle classes, mourning customs began to be sentimentalized as the enlightenment philosphies began to change the very basis of family life and family feeling.  Rousseauian ideals and neoclassical motifs collided so that by the second half of the 18th century every grieving mother envisioned herself a stoic Roman matron mourning her Brutus while posing attractively on the lawn with an obelisk.  Early on it was primarily in mourning iconography that women played out these neo-classical fashion fantasies, long before they appeared draped over the heaving bosoms of the demi-monde at the Palais Royale.

<strong>Mourning Jewelry and Portraiture</strong>

It was common custom for a person to stipulate in their will to have memorial jewelry made for loved ones (rings, brooches, lockets) either using macerated hair to paint with, or locks of hair woven to create a pleasing pattern or design, with a sentimental phrase, pertinent names, dates etc.  The to-be-deceased would have set aside some locks of hair for this purpose.  So it is with little surprise that (especially) during the Terror, when people were certain of their own demise, we find the condemned preparing for death, and their own remembrances there-after.   Locks of hair and other tokens are exchanged frequently, bequeathed, and smuggled out of prisons by sympathetic, and sometimes merely pecuniary, opportunists.  This was especially the case for the royal family.  Despite thorough efforts by the revolutionary government to deter the traffic in royal relics, there were reports of locks Louis XVI hair being sold in little boxes, and "large silver rings, which have secret openings, containing in their upper part, made convex for this purpose a small piece of the coat of Monsieur Veto..." [source: The Politics of Appearance - Wrigley]

<strong>Royalist Sympathies</strong>

<div class="caption"><a href="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/gallery/portraits_survived/landon_Le%20Comte%20Pierre-Jean%20de%20Bourcet%20et%20sa%20famille_1791.php" onclick="window.open('http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/gallery/portraits_survived/landon_Le%20Comte%20Pierre-Jean%20de%20Bourcet%20et%20sa%20famille_1791.php', 'popup', 'width=686,height=512,scrollbars=no,resizable=no,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=no,left=0,top=0' ); return false"><img src="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/gallery/portraits_survived/landon_Le%20Comte%20Pierre-Jean%20de%20Bourcet%20et%20sa%20famille_1791-thumb-200x149.jpg" width="200" height="149" alt="landon_Le Comte Pierre-Jean de Bourcet et sa famille_1791.jpg" border="0"  /></a><br><em>Le Comte Pierre-Jean de Bourcet et sa famille</em><br>Charles Paul Landon 1791<br>Inscription: Landon&mdash;officier de la maison<br> de feu Mgr le Dauphin&mdash;1791</div>

The year is 1791 and Bourcet, as an official in the house of the Dauphin, is displaying his royalist sympathies with a lack of subtlety that does him credit.  Upon the table to the left are marble busts of the king and queen, one white lily (of france) lies dying upon the table, while a second remains in a french blue vase.    I speculate that the lilies are the two dauphins of france, the elder of the two perished just before the fall of the bastille in July of 1789.  The Bourcet family seems to be mourning their own loss.  M. de Bourcet's downward gaze falls upon the fallen lily, hand empty and outstretched, while the other holds his eldest affectionately to his side.  The four children stand between their parents.  The eldest, father's little soldier, gazes forlornly at the portrait on the floor, a toddler on Maman's lap reaches towards the portrait upon the wall, too young to understand where his deceased brother has gone, while the young girl watches pensively by her youngest sibling's cradle, the infant turns away, perhaps ready to join the elder sibling who went before, and take her place in the empty frame above.  Madame and Mlle. are the only two who gaze at the viewer.   Who is the painting beneath the table?

<strong>The Victim's Ball</strong>

To read more on the most unusual mourning practice of the age, view my post and gallery on <a href="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/guillotine-the-french-kiss/victims-ball.php"><em>Les Bal des Victimes</em></a>!

<blockquote>Will posterity believe that persons whose relatives died on the scaffold did not institute
days of solemn and common affliction during which, assembled in mourning clothing,
they would attest to their grief over such cruel, such recent losses, but instead [instituted]
days of dancing where the point was to waltz, drink and eat to one's heart's content. <br>&mdash;Mercier</blockquote>


]]></description>
         <link>http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/revolutionary-fashion/18th-century-mourning.php</link>
         <guid>http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/revolutionary-fashion/18th-century-mourning.php</guid>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">Guillotine: The French Kiss</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">Revolutionary Fashion</category>
        
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">black</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">deuil</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">french revolution</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">hair jewelry</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">memorial</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">mourning</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">the terror</category>
        
         <pubDate>Sun, 09 Aug 2009 13:13:08 -0800</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>Life of Sir Henry Unton 1557-1596</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<div class="caption"><a href="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/gallery/mourning/sir_henry_unton_1596.php" onclick="window.open('http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/gallery/mourning/sir_henry_unton_1596.php', 'popup', 'width=2200,height=989,scrollbars=yes,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=no,left=0,top=0' ); return false"><img src="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/gallery/mourning/sir_henry_unton_1596-thumb-222x100.jpg" width="222" height="100" alt="sir_henry_unton_1596.jpg" border="0"  /></a><br>(500k) Life of Sir Henry Unton 1557-1596<br>
Anonymous &mdash;<a href="http://www.npg.org.uk/live/search/person.asp?LinkID=mp04590" target="_blank">National Portrait Gallery</a>, London</div>

Up until the 18th century mourning was a luxury enjoyed (sic) mainly by royalty and those with sufficient aristocratic pedigrees.  When <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henry_Unton" target="_blank" >Sir Henry Unton</a>, a mere Ambassador, MP and civil servant extraordinaire, died of bubonic plague while in the queen's service in 1596 he was accorded a baron's funeral for services rendered, a full two stations higher than his own of Knight.  His widow assures that this momentous honor will not be forgotten by her neighbors, had a brilliant and surreal panel painted depicting his birth, life, achievments, but mainly his oh-so-glorious death which takes up a good three-quarters of the panel.  His death, including maladie, doctoring, dying, sailing back to England in a black sailed mourning ship, the above mentioned mile long funeral procession and packed church, ends with his tomb, upon which he rests rather cheerfully, looking as if he were resting in a field of daisies, the Widow Unton looming over him like a spider.  All of this layed out rather counter-intuitively from right (birth) to left (entombment).   

<ul>
	<li><a href="http://www.mape.org.uk/activities/unton/index.htm"  target="_blank" >Sir Henry Unton Resource</a>: Nifty teaching tool that examines each little part of the painting.  Please complete the workbook at the end of each section and submit.</li>
                <li><a href="http://www.npg.org.uk/live/search/person.asp?LinkID=mp04590" target="_blank">Sir Henry Unton (1557-1596)</a>: at the National Portrait Gallery</li>
                <li>Source: <a href="http://www.npg.org.uk" target="_blank">National Portrait Gallery Visitor's Guide</a>, Revised 2006
</ul>

<div class="caption"><a href="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/gallery/mourning/sir_henry_unton_1596_boat.php" onclick="window.open('http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/gallery/mourning/sir_henry_unton_1596_boat.php', 'popup', 'width=486,height=900,scrollbars=yes,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=no,left=0,top=0' ); return false"><img src="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/gallery/mourning/sir_henry_unton_1596_boat-thumb-54x100.jpg" width="54" height="100" alt="sir_henry_unton_1596_boat.jpg" border="0"  /></a><br>Detail: Sir Henry Unton<br>Black sailed mourning ship<br>funeral mourners</div>

While my main focus here is French mourning, I mention Sir Henry because the painting is so very cool.  Well,  that and the further you go back in time, the more difficult it is to dig up the evidence on google.  French and English customs have long been in a neck and neck horse race.  One is never far behind the other, and so too goes the mourning customs.  That there is my excuse for rambling on about the very awesome Life and Death of Sir Henry Unton (which I didn't actually find on google, but saw rather in person during a recent visit to the National Portrait Gallery in London).  

So here I depart from England.  
]]></description>
         <link>http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/revolutionary-fashion/sir-henry-unton.php</link>
         <guid>http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/revolutionary-fashion/sir-henry-unton.php</guid>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">Revolutionary Fashion</category>
        
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">elizabethan</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">english</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">mourning</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">tudor</category>
        
         <pubDate>Sun, 09 Aug 2009 12:12:11 -0800</pubDate>
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         <title>Get your hands off my butch history - Times Online</title>
         <description><![CDATA[Interesting article about the Tudor's most recently prolific presenter: David Starkey.  

<a href="http://entertainment.timesonline.co.uk/tol/arts_and_entertainment/books/article6035805.ece">Get your hands off my butch history:</a> 
The historian David Starkey says his field has become all too girlie but his female colleagues are quick to slap him down

<blockquote>
History, he proclaimed in the Radio Times, had been "feminised" because "so many of the writers who write about [it] are women and so much of their audience is a female audience". Even the subject of his latest television series, Henry VIII, had been "absorbed by his wives", he said, "which is bizarre". </blockquote>

That said, Starkey's "Mind of a Tyrant" was pretty entertaining.  With more of a focus on Henry VIII himself than even his own previous series have had.

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]]></description>
         <link>http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/the-cankered-rose/get-your-hands-off-my-butch-hi.php</link>
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          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">The Cankered Rose</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">The Sources</category>
        
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">david starkey</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">henry viii</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">tudor</category>
        
         <pubDate>Fri, 03 Jul 2009 10:11:20 -0800</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title><![CDATA[L'Histoire du Costume F&eacute;minin Français.]]></title>
         <description><![CDATA[<span class="mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-image" style="display: inline;"><a href="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/elegantes-607.php" onclick="window.open('http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/elegantes-607.php','popup','width=1000,height=1400,scrollbars=no,resizable=no,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=no,left=0,top=0'); return false"><img src="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/elegantes-thumb-150x210-607.jpg" width="150" height="210" alt="elegantes.jpg" class="mt-image-none" style="" /></a></span><span class="mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-image" style="display: inline;"><a href="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/robes-604.php" onclick="window.open('http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/robes-604.php','popup','width=1000,height=1406,scrollbars=no,resizable=no,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=no,left=0,top=0'); return false"><img src="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/robes-thumb-150x210-604.jpg" width="150" height="210" alt="robes.jpg" class="mt-image-none" style="" /></a></span><span class="mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-image" style="display: inline;"><a href="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/manches-598.php" onclick="window.open('http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/manches-598.php','popup','width=1000,height=1398,scrollbars=no,resizable=no,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=no,left=0,top=0'); return false"><img src="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/manches-thumb-150x209-598.jpg" width="150" height="209" alt="manches.jpg" class="mt-image-none" style="" /></a></span><span class="mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-image" style="display: inline;"><a href="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/manteaux-601.php" onclick="window.open('http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/manteaux-601.php','popup','width=1000,height=1386,scrollbars=no,resizable=no,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=no,left=0,top=0'); return false"><img src="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/manteaux-thumb-150x207-601.jpg" width="150" height="207" alt="manteaux.jpg" class="mt-image-none" style="" /></a></span><span class="mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-image" style="display: inline;"><a href="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/jupes-595.php" onclick="window.open('http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/jupes-595.php','popup','width=1000,height=1392,scrollbars=no,resizable=no,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=no,left=0,top=0'); return false"><img src="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/jupes-thumb-150x208-595.jpg" width="150" height="208" alt="jupes.jpg" class="mt-image-none" style="" /></a></span><span class="mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-image" style="display: inline;"><a href="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/corsages-592.php" onclick="window.open('http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/corsages-592.php','popup','width=1000,height=1389,scrollbars=no,resizable=no,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=no,left=0,top=0'); return false"><img src="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/corsages-thumb-150x208-592.jpg" width="150" height="208" alt="corsages.jpg" class="mt-image-none" style="" /></a></span><span class="mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-image" style="display: inline;"><a href="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/coiffures-589.php" onclick="window.open('http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/coiffures-589.php','popup','width=1000,height=1399,scrollbars=no,resizable=no,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=no,left=0,top=0'); return false"><img src="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/coiffures-thumb-150x209-589.jpg" width="150" height="209" alt="coiffures.jpg" class="mt-image-none" style="" /></a></span><span class="mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-image" style="display: inline;"><a href="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/broderies-583.php" onclick="window.open('http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/broderies-583.php','popup','width=1000,height=1385,scrollbars=no,resizable=no,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=no,left=0,top=0'); return false"><img src="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/broderies-thumb-150x207-583.jpg" width="150" height="207" alt="broderies.jpg" class="mt-image-none" style="" /></a></span><span class="mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-image" style="display: inline;"><a href="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/etoffes-586.php" onclick="window.open('http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/etoffes-586.php','popup','width=1000,height=1384,scrollbars=no,resizable=no,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=no,left=0,top=0'); return false"><img src="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/etoffes-thumb-150x207-586.jpg" width="150" height="207" alt="etoffes.jpg" class="mt-image-none" style="" /></a></span><span class="mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-image" style="display: inline;"><a href="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/chapeaux-580.php" onclick="window.open('http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/chapeaux-580.php','popup','width=1000,height=1393,scrollbars=no,resizable=no,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=no,left=0,top=0'); return false"><img src="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/chapeaux-thumb-150x208-580.jpg" width="150" height="208" alt="chapeaux.jpg" class="mt-image-none" style="" /></a></span><span class="mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-image" style="display: inline;"><a href="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/histoire-du-costume-feminin-francaise-610.php" onclick="window.open('http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/histoire-du-costume-feminin-francaise-610.php','popup','width=348,height=400,scrollbars=no,resizable=no,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=no,left=0,top=0'); return false"><img src="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/assets_c/2009/04/histoire-du-costume-feminin-francaise-thumb-150x172-610.jpg" width="150" height="172" alt="histoire-du-costume-feminin-francaise.jpg" class="mt-image-none" style="" /></a></span>


Source: Ebay. 1922 Original Prints, Costumes worn 1789-1799.]]></description>
         <link>http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/revolutionary-fashion/lhistoire-du-costume-fminin-fr.php</link>
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          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">Revolutionary Fashion</category>
        
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">fashion</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">french revolution</category>
        
         <pubDate>Thu, 02 Apr 2009 12:10:25 -0800</pubDate>
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         <title>By the Sword Divided - From Revolution to Restoration in Period Drama</title>
         <description><![CDATA[What I did over the Christmas holidays... It started out with Mr. Kallisti downloading "The Devil's Whore" for me "cuz it sounded like your type of thing.  Y'know, whores..."  It snowballed from there as I watched Charles I beheaded three times over the two week slowdown!  It has taken me 2 more weeks just to finish this post, oy!

Here's the line-up, all highly recommended, in rough chrono-order.


<strong>1638 to 1660:</strong> <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Devils-Whore-Andrea-Riseborough/dp/B001MBVCOE">The Devil's Whore</a> [<a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1050057/">IMDB</a>]

<blockquote>By and large, there are two categories of period drama. The first is White Petticoat Drama, where people do a bit of frisky fan-work, have a picnic that involves a huge ham, and then live happily ever after. The second is Dirty Period Drama - where everyone is covered in boils, wees out of the window, and palpably suffers from the lack of antibiotics and/or mobile telecommunications. The Devil's Whore is definitely in the second category. John Simm's fleas should make the credit list. Oliver Cromwell clearly pongs. It makes a dirty war a very dirty war. But one that, against all the Civil War odds, makes great telly. 

-<em><a href="http://entertainment.timesonline.co.uk/tol/arts_and_entertainment/tv_and_radio/article5130075.ece">Caitlin Moran, The Times</a></em></blockquote>

<span class="mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-image" style="display: inline;"><a href="http://www.blastmilk.com/assets_c/2009/01/the_devils_whore_2008_08_27-551.php" onclick="window.open('http://www.blastmilk.com/assets_c/2009/01/the_devils_whore_2008_08_27-551.php','popup','width=750,height=500,scrollbars=no,resizable=no,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=no,left=0,top=0'); return false"><img src="http://www.blastmilk.com/assets_c/2009/01/the_devils_whore_2008_08_27-thumb-400x266-551.jpg" width="400" height="266" alt="the_devils_whore_2008_08_27.jpg" class="mt-image-none" style="" /></a></span>

<strong>1640 to 1660:</strong> <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002MGZ1O/sepulchritude/">"By the Sword Divided" (1983)</a> [<a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0092712/">IMDB</a>] [<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/By_the_Sword_Divided">WIKI</a>]

A bit obvious to say, but if you liked Poldark you'll really enjoy "By the Sword Divided." Classic low budget, yet brilliantly written and performed eighteen hour series from the BBC.  It also aired on Masterpiece Theater in the late 80's.  One of the few period dramas to deal with the English Civil War, before and aftermath.  

<span class="mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-image" style="display: inline;"><img alt="by-the-sword-divided.jpg" src="http://www.blastmilk.com/upload/by-the-sword-divided.jpg" width="517" height="375" class="mt-image-none" style="" /></span>

<strong>1660 to 1685:</strong> <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Last-King-Power-Passion-Charles/dp/B0001KL5M6/sepulchritude/">Charles II - The Power & The Passion</a> (<em>The Last King</em> in the U.S.): [<a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/drama/charles/">BBC</a>] [<a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0364800/">IMDB</a>] 2003, covers the life and adventures of Charles II of England, played by the ever roguish Rufus Sewell.  Mwrowr.

<span class="mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-image" style="display: inline;"><img alt="charles_second.jpg" src="http://www.blastmilk.com/upload/charles_second.jpg" width="350" height="213" class="mt-image-none" /></span>


<strong>1673 to 1722: </strong> <a href="http://www.amazon.com/First-Churchills-Susan-Hampshire/dp/B0002RQ0YG/sepulchritude/">The First Churchills</a> [<a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0065292/">IMDB</a>]

<a href="http://www.amazon.com/First-Churchills-Susan-Hampshire/dp/B0002RQ0YG/sepulchritude/">The First Churchills</a>: 1969! Covers the period 1673 through 1722, based on the biography by Winston Churchill of his illustrious ancestors, the first Duke & Duchess of Marlborough.  Susan Hampshire & John Neville are sublime.

<span class="mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-image" style="display: inline;"><img alt="firstchurchills1.jpg" src="http://www.blastmilk.com/upload/firstchurchills1.jpg" width="407" height="283" class="mt-image-left" style="float: left; margin: 0 20px 20px 0;" /></span>
]]></description>
         <link>http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/a-decapitation-miscellany/by-the-sword-divided.php</link>
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          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">A Decapitation Miscellany</category>
        
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         <pubDate>Wed, 21 Jan 2009 16:14:17 -0800</pubDate>
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         <title>Guardian.co.uk: Top 10 books about Elizabeth I</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<blockquote>Michael Dobson and Nicola J Watson are the authors of England's Elizabeth: An Afterlife in Fame and Fantasy (Oxford, 2002). It is a guide to the nation's 400-year obsession with the Virgin Queen.


"This is a deliberately miscellaneous selection, since one of the most extraordinary things about Elizabeth is the sheer range of material she has inspired, and continues to inspire, from Spenser's Faerie Queene to Shekhar Kapur's Elizabeth and beyond."
</blockquote>

Read the full list: <a href="http://www.guardian.co.uk/books/2004/jul/28/top10s.elizabeth" target="_blank">The Guardian.co.uk - Michael Dobson and Nicola J Watson's top 10 books about Elizabeth I</a>

Or take a spin on my li'l carousel!

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         <pubDate>Tue, 29 Jul 2008 05:34:36 -0800</pubDate>
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         <title>Tudor terror: John Guy is on a mission to bring history to the masses</title>
         <description><![CDATA[Excerpt from: <a href="http://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/books/features/tudor-terror-john-guy-is-on-a-mission-to-bring-history-to-the-masses-876441.html" target="_blank">Tudor terror: John Guy is on a mission to bring history to the masses</a>&mdash;The Independent<br/><br/>

<blockquote>It is the summer of 1535, just weeks after the execution of Sir Thomas More. A small rowing boat makes its way along the Thames from Chelsea to London Bridge. The oarsman's passengers are a 29-year-old gentlewoman, Margaret Roper, and her maid, who carries a basket. A horrific sight meets their eyes as they approach the bridge: a dozen or more skulls on poles protruding from the parapet, which have been boiled and tarred to prevent them being fed upon by circling gulls. As new heads arrive, the old ones are moved along the row until they reach the end of the line, when they are thrown into the river.


At the door of the north tower of the bridge, the maid negotiates with the bridge-master, handing over the contents of her purse. In return she receives one of the skulls, carefully wrapping it in a linen cloth and placing it in a basket. This is all that remains of Thomas More. One day the skull will join Margaret Roper herself, when she is interred in the family tomb at Chelsea, a burial symbolic of the special attachment between father and daughter.


This is the gripping opening scene of John Guy's study of the relationship of Margaret Roper and her father, Thomas More. 
</blockquote>

To be released: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Daughters-Love-THOMAS-MORE-DEAREST/dp/0618499156/">A Daughter's Love: THOMAS MORE AND HIS DEAREST MEG </a> by John Guy 

<OBJECT classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" codebase="http://fpdownload.macromedia.com/get/flashplayer/current/swflash.cab" id="Player_19b47cdf-0782-4930-a641-c09b0725afca"  WIDTH="400px" HEIGHT="150px"> <PARAM NAME="movie" VALUE="http://ws.amazon.com/widgets/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&MarketPlace=US&ID=V20070822%2FUS%2Fsepulchritude%2F8010%2F19b47cdf-0782-4930-a641-c09b0725afca&Operation=GetDisplayTemplate"><PARAM NAME="quality" VALUE="high"><PARAM NAME="bgcolor" VALUE="#FFFFFF"><PARAM NAME="allowscriptaccess" VALUE="always"><embed src="http://ws.amazon.com/widgets/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&MarketPlace=US&ID=V20070822%2FUS%2Fsepulchritude%2F8010%2F19b47cdf-0782-4930-a641-c09b0725afca&Operation=GetDisplayTemplate" id="Player_19b47cdf-0782-4930-a641-c09b0725afca" quality="high" bgcolor="#ffffff" name="Player_19b47cdf-0782-4930-a641-c09b0725afca" allowscriptaccess="always"  type="application/x-shockwave-flash" align="middle" height="150px" width="400px"></embed></OBJECT> <NOSCRIPT><A HREF="http://ws.amazon.com/widgets/q?ServiceVersion=20070822&MarketPlace=US&ID=V20070822%2FUS%2Fsepulchritude%2F8010%2F19b47cdf-0782-4930-a641-c09b0725afca&Operation=NoScript">Amazon.com Widgets</A></NOSCRIPT>

<span class="mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-image" style="display: inline;"><a href="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/images/decollete/tudor/holbein-margaret-roper.php" onclick="window.open('http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/images/decollete/tudor/holbein-margaret-roper.php','popup','width=450,height=508,scrollbars=no,resizable=no,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=no,left=0,top=0'); return false"><img src="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/images/decollete/tudor/holbein-margaret-roper-thumb-150x169.jpg" width="150" height="169" alt="holbein-margaret-roper.jpg" class="mt-image-none" style="" /></a></span>

<strong>Margaret More (1505-1544), Wife of William Roper, 1535-36</strong>
Hans Holbein the Younger (German, 1497/98-1543)
Vellum laid on playing card; Diam. 1 3/4 in. (45 mm)
From: <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/ho/08/euwb/hob_50.69.2.htm">Metropolitan Museum of Art</a>]]></description>
         <link>http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/the-cankered-rose/tudor-terror-john-guy-is-on-a.php</link>
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         <pubDate>Mon, 28 Jul 2008 05:28:04 -0800</pubDate>
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         <title>BBC NEWS | Rare Elizabeth I portrait found</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<span class="mt-enclosure mt-enclosure-image" style="display: inline;"><a href="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/gallery/tudor-family-portrait.php" onclick="window.open('http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/gallery/tudor-family-portrait.php','popup','width=768,height=410,scrollbars=no,resizable=no,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=no,left=0,top=0'); return false"><img src="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/gallery/tudor-family-portrait-thumb-125x66.jpg" width="125" height="66" alt="tudor-family-portrait.jpg" class="mt-image-left" style="float: left; margin: 0 20px 20px 0;" /></a></span> <blockquote>A rare portrait of Queen Elizabeth I as a young princess has been discovered in a private collection at a stately home in Northamptonshire. 


The portrait, dating from 1650 to 1680, was found in the Duke of Buccleuch's collection at Boughton House. 

&mdash; <a href="http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/northamptonshire/7421051.stm">Continue Reading Article...</a>

</blockquote><br/><br/>


]]></description>
         <link>http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/the-cankered-rose/bbc-news-england-northamptonsh.php</link>
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         <pubDate>Tue, 27 May 2008 05:53:19 -0800</pubDate>
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         <title>The Victim&apos;s Ball</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<div class="caption" style="width:200px"><a href="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/gallery/guillotine/victime01.php" onclick="window.open('http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/gallery/guillotine/victime01.php','popup','width=500,height=844,scrollbars=no,resizable=yes,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=no,left=0,top=0'); return false"><img src="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/gallery/guillotine/victime01-thumb.jpg" width="200" height="337" alt="victime01.jpg" border="0"/></a><br><em>Croisures à la victime</em>, 1798<br>from "Fashion in the French Revolution" by Aileen Ribiero</div>
Or, <em>les Bal des Victimes</em>...

The celebratory atmosphere following the "Reign of Terror" gave way to a number of frivolous yet gruesome fashions and pastimes, one of which was the Victim's Ball. In order to qualify for admittance in one of these sought after soirees one had to to be a close relative or spouse of one who had lost their life to the guillotine. Invitations were so coveted that papers proving your right to attend had to be shown at the door, and some were even known to forge this certificate in their eagerness. All the rage at these grand balls was to have the hair cut high up off the neck, in imitation of "<em>le toilette du condamne</em>" where the victim's hair is cut so as not to impede the efficiency of the blade.   There were several popular hairstyles including <em>cheveux &agrave; la titus</em> or <em>&agrave; la victime </em>for both women and men, where the hair is given very short and choppy cut, and the "dog ears" worn by Muscadins, where long flops of hair are left on either side of the face, but cut right up to the hairline on the back of the neck. And for the ladies, a thin red velvet ribbon worn round the neck, or red ribbons worn <em> croisures &agrave; la victime</em>, a kind of reverse fichu, or <em>ceinture crois&eacute;e</em>, across the back of the bodice forming a symbolic "x marks the spot" across the upper back. 

<blockquote>Will posterity believe that persons whose relatives died on the scaffold did not institute
days of solemn and common affliction during which, assembled in mourning clothing,
they would attest to their grief over such cruel, such recent losses, but instead [instituted]
days of dancing where the point was to waltz, drink and eat to one's heart's content. <br>&mdash;Mercier</blockquote>

Like most fads, these reactionary styles and those of the <em><a href="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/revolutionary-fashion/incroyables-et-merveilleus.php">Incroyable et Merveilleuse</a> </em>crowd that ruled Paris the days after 9 Thermidor, this one was over before it began.  By the end of the decade once mutually exclusive sartorial insignia such as knee breeches (monarchist) and the <em>tricoloure </em>were sported together with verve, irrespective of their once pertinent symbolism.  It's just fashion!  The short and sassy hair cut <em>&agrave; la titus </em>never caught on outside of France for women, but lasted in France into the next century.  Men's hair never recovered.  From the unpowdered long locks of the revolutionary sympathizer, to the dashingly short <em>titus</em>, men have endeavored to look unfussed ever since, even if it took a whole lot of fussing to achieve.

<strong>Sources:</strong>

<ul>
	<li><a href="http://links.jstor.org/sici?sici=0734-6018(199824)61%3C78%3AGTTBDV%3E2.0.CO%3B2-G">Gothic Thermidor</a>: The Bals des victimes</li>
<li>Journal des Dames et des Modes (Costume Parisien): [<a href="http://locutus.ucr.edu/~cathy/jd.html">source</a>] [<a href="http://19thc-artworldwide.org/spring_06/articles/jens.shtml">source</a>] and <a href="http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?from=R40&_trksid=m37&satitle=Journal+des+Dames+et+des+Modes&category0=">eBay</a> ^_^
<li><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Art-Louis-Leopold-Boilly-Modern-Napoleonic/dp/0300063326/sepulchritude">The Art of Louis-Leopold Boilly</a>: Modern Life in Napoleonic France </li>
<li><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Fashion-French-Revolution-Costume-Civilization/dp/0841911975/sepulchritude">Fashion in the French Revolution</a> by Aileen Ribeiro</li>
</ul>]]></description>
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         <guid>http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/guillotine-the-french-kiss/victims-ball.php</guid>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">Guillotine: The French Kiss</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">Revolutionary Fashion</category>
        
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">bal des victimes</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">costume</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">guillotine</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">victim&apos;s ball</category>
        
         <pubDate>Thu, 29 Nov 2007 07:00:47 -0800</pubDate>
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         <title>Marie-Antoinette and the Petit Trianon at Versailles</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<a href="http://www.famsf.org/legion/exhibitions/exhibition.asp?exhibitionkey=737" target="_blank">Marie-Antoinette and the Petit Trianon at Versailles</a>
Legion of Honor, San Francisco
November 17, 2007 — February 17, 2008

<div class="caption"> <a href="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/gallery/marie-antoinette/marie-antoinette_legion_of_honor.php" onclick="window.open('http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/gallery/marie-antoinette/marie-antoinette_legion_of_honor.php', 'popup', 'width=520,height=274,scrollbars=no,resizable=no,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=no,left=0,top=0' ); return false"><img src="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/gallery/marie-antoinette/marie-antoinette_legion_of_honor-thumb-284x150.jpg" width="284" height="150" alt="marie-antoinette_legion_of_honor.jpg" border="0" /></a></div>

Now, if my google alert box weren't quite so overwhelming, I might have caught this press release when it went out.  But due to the sharp eyes of a good friend, Nadja (&hearts;), I have the link!  

Aieeeee!  

The blurb:

<blockquote>Marie-Antoinette, the Austrian-born queen of Louis XVI of France, was given the Petit Trianon, a small château secluded in the park at Versailles, upon her accession in 
1774. An icon of French neoclassicism, it exemplifies the perfection of 18th-century French architecture through its delicate balance of form and proportion. Its interiors were furnished to the queen's order with pieces of the utmost elegance, restraint, and beauty. This exhibition gives a visual history of the Petit Trianon through 88 pieces of the finest furniture, paintings, and sculpture from this château. It is complemented by watercolors, prints, and drawings of the house and its innovative landscaping, including the picturesque Hameau, a rustic village where the queen and her favorites could relax away from the prying eyes of the court at Versailles. This is the only venue of the exhibition, which is organized by the Musée National of the Château de Versailles.
</blockquote>

One of my favorite things about trumpeting your hobbies loud and proud (on the internet and otherwise) is that friends and strangers alike are sure to let you know of something dead or decapitated... in case you missed it.  Yay!

I'd be running down there this instant if I didn't have so much going on this week with Dolpa & Work & Thanksgiving & OH GAWD!  Heh.

In any case, it is showing at San Francisco's Legion of Honor from today til 2/17/2008, with lots of very <a href="http://www.famsf.org/legion/calendar/day.asp?search=search&exhibitionid=737" target="_blank">cool special events</a> planned.   

We'll report back.  For reals.  I still have 2837434 pictures from my Severed Head, er, Absinthe tour of Europe last summer!  And more on the <a href="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/guillotine/fashion/">revolutionary fashion</a> stuff.  I'm a busy girl.  But it is all coming along.  

Mwah!
Kallisti



]]></description>
         <link>http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/revolutionary-fashion/marieantoinette-and-the-petit.php</link>
         <guid>http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/revolutionary-fashion/marieantoinette-and-the-petit.php</guid>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">Guillotine: The French Kiss</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">Revolutionary Fashion</category>
        
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">french revolution</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">marie antoinette</category>
        
         <pubDate>Sat, 17 Nov 2007 09:24:33 -0800</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>Tudor England Links</title>
         <description><![CDATA[Links:
<ul>
<li>Wikipedia: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henry_VIII_of_England" target="_blank">Henry VIII</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anne_Boleyn" target="_blank">Anne Boleyn</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catherine_Howard" target="_blank">Katherine Howard</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catherine_Parr" target="_blank">Catherine Parr</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lady_Jane_Grey" target="_blank">Lady Jane Grey</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elizabeth_I_of_England" target="_blank">Elizabeth I</a>, and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mary_I_of_Scotland">Mary Queen of Scots</a></li>
<li><a href="http://tudorhistory.org/" target="_blank" >TudorHistory.org</a>!  Happy clicking.  Bright and fun to read, wonderful pictures and good selection of portraits with lots of juicy tidbits.  Awesome time-killer!</li>
</ul>

]]></description>
         <link>http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/links/tudor-england-links.php</link>
         <guid>http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/links/tudor-england-links.php</guid>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">Links</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">The Cankered Rose</category>
        
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">tudor</category>
        
         <pubDate>Fri, 09 Nov 2007 06:26:23 -0800</pubDate>
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         <title>Les Incroyables et Merveilleuses: Fashion as Anti-Rebellion</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<div class="caption"> <a href="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/gallery/incroyables_et_merveilleus/boilypdc.php" onclick="window.open('http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/gallery/incroyables_et_merveilleus/boilypdc.php', 'popup', 'width=872,height=672,scrollbars=no,resizable=no,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=no,left=0,top=0' ); return false"><img src="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/gallery/incroyables_et_merveilleus/boilypdc-thumb.jpg" width="250" height="192" alt="boilypdc.jpg" border="0"  /></a><br><em>Point de Convention (Absolutely no agreement)</em><br> Louis-L&eacute;opold Boilly 1797<br>A <em>Merveilleuse </em>is mistaken for a prostitute<br> and refuses the coin offered to her.</div>

The <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muscadin">Muscadins</a> (or <em>Incroyable</em>, the Incredible) first appeared around 1792, known for their royalist sympathies and so named for the musk perfume they wore in defiance of revolutionary austerity.  They re-emerged after the fall of Robespierre, ending the Terror, and were key thugs in what has become known as The White Terror, a backlash against jacobin oppression, violence, and Robespierrean virtue.  The <em>jeunesse dor&eacute;e</em> roamed the streets of Paris drinking, toasting the monarchy and lashing out at patriots with sticks.  And they looked <em>fabulous </em>doing it.  Typified by their adherence to <em>ancien regime</em> knee-breeches and exaggerated English style frock coats with impossibly large collars, and powdered hair dressed outlandishly in either multiple braids or "dog-eared" style, cut short in the back <em>&agrave; la victime</em> and long beside the face.  They were literally roving bands of angry dandies.  By the late 1790's however, sporting a Muscadin hairdo would no longer get you arrested (as it could in 1795) as the various styles were adopted and absorbed into the fashionable and ephemeral society of the <em>Directoire</em>.

Aileen Ribeiro says of  <a href="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/gallery/incroyables_et_merveilleus/incroyable02.php" onclick="window.open('http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/gallery/incroyables_et_merveilleus/incroyable02.php', 'popup', 'width=472,height=400,scrollbars=no,resizable=no,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=no,left=0,top=0' ); return false"> this image (les Incroyables) </a>:

<blockquote>Caricaturists found a perfect subject in the form of the masculine fashions of the late 1790s.  Both young men wear tight-fitting square-cut coats with huge lapels, and knee-breeches decorated with loops of fabric.  Their political sympathies are not necessarily clear.  Although their <em>culottes </em>date from the<em> ancien r&eacute;gime</em>, their printed cravats are working-class in origin; and, while the man on the left wears his hair plaited at the back <em>&agrave; la victime</em>, the man on the right has a revolutionary cockade prominently pinned to his hat.  Both have shaggy hair, the side locks falling like spaniel's ears.  The implications seems to be that fashion is more important than ideology.

&mdash; <em><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Fashion-French-Revolution-Costume-Civilization/dp/0841911975/sepulchritude">Fashion in the French Revolution</a></em>, Aileen Ribeiro
</blockquote>


<em>Les Merveilleuses</em>, or Marvelous Women, ruled the live fast, die young social whirlwind that took over the salons of Paris after the Terror.  At their front <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Th%C3%A9r%C3%A9sa_Tallien" target="_blank">Th&eacute;r&eacute;sa Cabarrus Fontenay Tallien</a> and Jos&eacute;phine de Beauharnais (later Empress) both of whom just barely survived the Jacobin regime.  It was partly on Th&eacute;r&eacute;sa's behalf, with whom Tallien had been conducting a torrid affair, that he spearheaded the Thermadorian take down of  Robespierre and the Montagnards. The <em>&agrave; la Grecque</em> style typified by Th&eacute;r&eacute;sa, Jos&eacute;phine, and Madame R&eacute;camier consisted of clinging, flowing classical Greek and Roman styles in white silks and muslins, draped with brightly colored shawls and ribbons edged with classical motifs. The once allegorical fashion left the painters studio and took to the streets and ballrooms, their dainty feet shod in golden sandals, and dresses dampened  to enhance their cling (though wearing knitted flesh colored stays and stockings to preserve a vestige of modesty). Madame Tallien though was the real deal, and famously appeared at the Paris Opera wearing a white silk dress without sleeves and sans petticoats (gasp!). Charles Maurice de Talleyrand commented: "<em>Il n'est pas possible de s'exposer plus somptueusement!</em>" ("It  is not possible to exhibit oneself more sumptuously!") [source: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Th%C3%A9r%C3%A9sa_Tallien" target="_blank">wikipedia</a>].  Hair was worn curled and dressed with ribbons <em>&agrave; la grecque</em> or clipped short <em>&agrave; la victime</em> or <em>&agrave; la titus</em>, in emulation of the last haircut the condemned received before being sent to the guillotine so as not to impede the blade.  This short and sassy style lasted amazingly til the early 1800s, but never caught on in England or other countries, unlike the empire waisted dress, which proved the silhouette du jour for nearly thirty years.]]></description>
         <link>http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/revolutionary-fashion/incroyables-et-merveilleus.php</link>
         <guid>http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/revolutionary-fashion/incroyables-et-merveilleus.php</guid>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">Guillotine: The French Kiss</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">Revolutionary Fashion</category>
        
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">18th century</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">costume</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">fashion</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">french revolution</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">incroyables</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">merveilleuse</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">muscadin</category>
        
         <pubDate>Fri, 27 Jul 2007 09:05:01 -0800</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>Sans-culottes: Artisans of Paris</title>
         <description><![CDATA[<div class="caption"><a href="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/gallery/sansculottes/sansculottes_bastille05.php" onclick="window.open('http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/gallery/sansculottes/sansculottes_bastille05.php', 'popup', 'width=540,height=400,scrollbars=no,resizable=no,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=no,left=0,top=0' ); return false"><img src="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/gallery/sansculottes/sansculottes_bastille05-thumb.jpg" width="250" height="185" alt="sansculottes_bastille05.jpg" border="0"  /></a><br>Sans-culottes carrying a model of the Bastille, 1793</div><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sansculotte"><strong>Sans-culottes:</strong></a> Literally "without knee breeches" i.e. <em>not</em> a Mr. Fancy Pants, an aristo, as the working man wore trousers.  This became the defacto uniform for the <em>Sans-culotte</em>, along with the Phrygian Cap, removed from the lofty spear of <em><a href="http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/gallery/allegory/liberty.php" onclick="window.open('http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/gallery/allegory/liberty.php', 'popup', 'width=270,height=359,scrollbars=no,resizable=no,toolbar=no,directories=no,location=no,menubar=no,status=no,left=0,top=0' ); return false">Libert&eacute;</a></em>, and the tricolour cockade.  
]]></description>
         <link>http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/revolutionary-fashion/sansculottes.php</link>
         <guid>http://www.blastmilk.com/decollete/revolutionary-fashion/sansculottes.php</guid>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category">Guillotine: The French Kiss</category>
        
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          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">french revolution</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">jacobins</category>
        
          <category domain="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#tag">sans-culotte</category>
        
         <pubDate>Fri, 20 Jul 2007 07:21:02 -0800</pubDate>
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